Types of Silver Used in Jewelry: Sterling, Fine & More
We often talk about silver jewelry as if it's all the same.
But it's not.
Silver jewelry pieces can vary in quality and durability depending on what type of silver they're made of. This means not all silver jewelry is created equally, with sterling silver regarded as the best option by silver jewelry manufacturers.
These silver grades vary in quality, durability, and cost, and knowing the difference can make a big difference to your reputation and bottom line.
Below, we'll take a look at the various silver grades available on the market today and the benefits and downsides of each.
What Are Silver Grades?
Silver is rarely used in its pure form for jewelry. That's because it's a relatively soft metal, composed of 99.9% precious silver and just 0.1% oxygen, chlorine, and other trace elements.
To make it more suitable for jewelry, manufacturers add other metals to pure silver to boost its durability. This turns the silver into an alloy and can enhance qualities like shininess and scratch resistance.
Silver is then graded based on its silver-to-other-metal ratio.
Some silver grades are better than others, with some manufacturers opting for lesser alloys as a cost-saving measure. Others, ELF925 included, only use the very highest quality sterling silver, keeping costs down through streamlined manufacturing processes instead.
The Different Types of Silver Used in Jewelry
1. Pure Silver (.999)
Otherwise known as fine silver, pure silver features a .999 hallmark. This speaks to its 99.9% silver purity and is renowned for its unique, natural sheen and luster. Unlike some alloys, pure silver won't tarnish and leave marks on wearers. It is, however, remarkably soft and likely to dent and scratch during use.
That said, there's genuine demand for fine silver within the handmade jewelry market, where bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces are sought after.
2. Sterling Silver (.925)
Sterling silver is considered the de facto alloy when it comes to silver jewelry making.
It's typically composed of 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper, with nickel used by some manufacturers instead. Copper is added to silver to make it harder, so jewelry can be worn without fear of damage.
Sterling silver also features a much brighter, shinier finish than pure silver. This shiny luster is what most of us associate with silver, since sterling silver is what most US and European jewelry stores stock.
Because it contains copper, sterling silver will naturally tarnish over time. That dark material is easily removed, though, and leaves no permanent mark.
3. British Silver (.958)
Some UK-made silver jewelry may also feature a .958 hallmark. This is commonly known as Britannia silver or British silver, and was first introduced in 1697 by the UK parliament. It was originally developed to prevent the melting down of silver coinage but has since found use in tableware and jewelry.
British silver isn't commonly used by jewelry manufacturers today, since it's not as durable as sterling silver, lacks the same sheen, and costs more.
4. Argentium Silver (®, .925, .935, .960)
Argentium silver is a collective term for silver alloys that don't tarnish. They all contain at least 92.5% silver, ranging as high as 96%. It looks almost the same as sterling silver and has been around since 1998, but it's not widely used.
The secret ingredient in Argentium silver is germanium. It's added to silver alongside copper and reduces how much the piece will tarnish. It's a popular choice for wristwatches and other pieces worn for extended periods, like bracelets.
Argentium silver is expensive, however. Not only does it usually contain more silver content, but the manufacturing process itself adds considerable expense, since it's patented.
5. Silver Plated
Silver-plated jewelry is often called costume jewelry and is used purely for aesthetic reasons. The jewelry itself is made from a cheaper metal, such as brass or copper, then coated with a very thin layer of sterling silver.
This layer gets added through various techniques, with electroplating being the most common. This involves submerging the base metal and silver into an electrolyte solution and running a current through both. Through an electrochemical process, positively charged silver molecules attach themselves to the negatively charged jewelry piece.
This layer is extremely thin, typically 1 to 10 microns, which is what allows silver-plated jewelry to stay so cheap to produce.
While silver-plated jewelry can look every bit as glamorous as solid sterling silver pieces, the layer wears off fairly easily and is best suited for short-term or infrequent use.
6. Nickel Silver
Nickel silver isn't actually silver, despite the name. It's an alloy made from copper and nickel, sometimes with zinc substituted in. It's also known as Alpaca silver or German silver.
It was created as an inexpensive alternative to sterling silver. While it contains no silver at all, its name refers to its appearance, which closely resembles .925 silver. It's another popular choice for costume jewelry, where aesthetics take priority over durability and preciousness.
Resellers should be aware that many people have nickel allergies, which can cause a rash or skin irritation. It won't necessarily carry any hallmark, since it isn't a graded silver.
7. Coin Silver (.900)
A fairly uncommon silver grade, coin silver was used most in the United States. It features a lower silver-to-copper ratio of 90% and 10%, since it was traditionally made from melted-down coinage. Jewelry made from coin silver carries a .900 hallmark.
Coin silver jewelry is now extremely rare and isn't used by manufacturers at scale today. It's most commonly found as antiques or used by bespoke jewelry creators.
Customers Look for Sterling Silver Jewelry
With its unique blend of durability, cost-effectiveness, and luster, sterling silver is considered the best all-around grade of silver. Customers recognize it as a trusted grade that will last a lifetime and beyond.
Jewelry resellers, creators, and retailers should look to sterling silver pieces first to deliver what customers actually want. If you'd like a deeper look at how sterling silver compares to plain silver, or how different alloys stack up against each other, our guides on sterling silver versus silver and comparing silver alloys cover both in more detail. For the full picture on materials, finishes, and techniques across our range, see about our products.
Here at ELF925, we're doing just that, while also keeping profitability and sustainability in balance.
FAQ
What's the difference between sterling silver and fine silver?
Fine silver is 99.9% pure and very soft, while sterling silver is 92.5% silver alloyed with copper for added strength. Sterling is the more practical choice for everyday jewelry, while fine silver suits delicate, low-wear pieces.
Is silver-plated jewelry the same as sterling silver?
No. Silver-plated jewelry is a base metal like brass or copper coated with a thin layer of silver, typically 1 to 10 microns thick. Sterling silver is solid silver alloy throughout, making it far more durable over time.
Does Argentium silver tarnish like sterling silver?
No, or at least far less. Argentium's germanium content significantly reduces tarnishing compared to standard sterling silver, though it comes at a higher price point due to its silver content and patented manufacturing process.
Is nickel silver actually silver?
No. Despite the name, nickel silver contains no silver at all. It's an alloy of copper and nickel (sometimes zinc) that simply resembles sterling silver in appearance, and it's a common cause of skin allergies.
What silver grade should wholesale retailers stock?
Sterling silver (.925) is the standard choice for most retailers, offering the best balance of durability, cost, and the shine customers expect from silver jewelry.
How can I tell what type of silver a piece is made from?
Check for a hallmark stamp such as “925,” “999,” or “958,” which indicates the silver content. Our guide on how to spot real sterling silver jewelry covers additional checks beyond the hallmark.
